Venice in 30,000 steps

Everyone has to see Venice. And they tell you to get there quick, before it sinks. In early March, the sky was bright blue and just warm enough to sip on an aperol and watch the boats swing by the lido.

From January to March, you miss the rain and the heaving tourists. And the water, virtually everywhere, is even more reviving – bright turquoise in the light and soothing emerald green in the darkness.

We walked around all day on Friday (30,000 steps) - set yourself a target and wind your way around the canals and over bridges to get there.

The best atmosphere:

Luna Sentada was a tiny restaurant in Castello. With just a few tables inside you can be sure of good service and excellent food – a menu featuring Venetian classics with a twist. They have a sister bar next door, which is perfect for lunch or an early evening drink. I loved the décor here – and as its name suggests a soft, candle lit lighting which makes for a romantic first evening in Venice.

The best food:

Osteria Oliva Nera had the most wonderful organic menu.

It’s inventive too; the waitress drew our desserts out on the back of a piece of paper in a flower design – one petal for each option. And there was a ‘surprise’ petal too for the brave. We went for the crème brulee on the advice of American guests on the table over, who were 10 minutes ahead.

Jazz at night:

The Venice Jazz Club between S.Margherita square and S.Barnaba square. You have to pay £20 euros to get in, but once you do it’s a nice refresher from a very sleepy city.

Early walk

Get to the Rialto Bridge before the tourists – I’m talking early and grab breakfast at the bottom of the bridge before meandering again.

Best ride into town:

If you can take a water taxi from the airport (if you land – and you should do at Marco Polo Airport). It costs around £120 but it’s an incredible way to arrive. And you feel a bit like James / Jane Bond.

Artisan bags (I didn’t buy)

There’s so many bag shops in Venice, with coloured imaginings of designer classics.

I won’t invest in one of these but if you want to get a taste of old-school Italian artisans drop by Francis Model. They do a lot of textured pieces, which look far more expensive than they are. The Father – Son duo make beautiful original designs, which are well worth the price tag. There’s also Raggio Veneziano, whose products are also handmade in Venice.

Live like Peggy:

Being an American millionaires in the 1950s – probably want the worst live. Step into Peggy Guggenheim’s shoes at her eponymous museum. The range of pieces here is staggering – and is a nice antidote to church art.

Vintage:

Whenever I’m in a different city – I always have to check out their vintage shops. It’s a nice way to mingle with like minded people without having to strike up a conversation in a bar. L’armadio di Coco is relatively near St. Mark’s (behind the Zara and H&M) so there’s no excuse not to dip in. Expect designer bags and coats here. I found a sweet little – almost Burberry – Mac in Bisnonni. Worth a hunt.

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